Metal Legs For Coffee Table – Yes, another welding project! Today I’m showing you how I made this DIY coffee table out of welded steel legs. Now, I don’t need to
Another coffee table after I built a few recently ( this one and this one ), but I wanted to experiment with different leg designs and get more welding experience under my belt.
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Plus I could really use a large coffee table in my living room/office. I understand that most of you don’t solder, but I think you’ll still enjoy watching the process. Be sure to check out the video here. If you want to make a similar table without welding, you can order pre-made metal legs online.
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First, I cut 2 pieces of 2″ flat steel bar to 26″ lengths using my portable band saw. Then I cut (4) pieces of 1/2″ steel rod to 16″ lengths and (4) pieces to 19″ lengths.
I used my angle grinder with a flap disc to grind the ends of each rod and the flat bar.
You have to have a really clean surface to solder on, so I used my angle grinder on any part that was going to be soldered together, to get rid of all that gritty residue. (Raw steel is very messy.) Tried grinding the ends of the rods to a slight angle to make it easier to connect but I didn’t do a good job.
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I used my magnet clamps to keep my steel bar straight. (These magnet clamps come in very handy.) I knew I wanted the outer rods to be at a slight angle, so I cut the wood pieces to a 15 degree angle. against my steel rod to ensure both weld at the same angle.
I marked within an inch of each side and lined up my angled scrap wood with those marks, then placed my 16″ long steel rod along each and used magnet clamps to hold them in place. This ensured that the rods were welded an inch from the end of the flat steel bar.
Once my outer rods were in place, I positioned 2 of my 19″ long rods to form criss-crossing V shapes in the middle, and I placed the 16” and 19” rods 7 inches apart.
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When I got them where I wanted them, I welded them in place and then went back and finished my welds, and then flipped it over and welded the other side. Then I repeated this entire process for the second leg piece.
After welding everything together I used my angle grinder with a flap disc to smooth out my very messy welds. I told you guys I’m a beginner so don’t look too closely and judge too harshly!
I used a multi-purpose drill bit intended for use on metal to pre-drill holes in the flat steel bar so that I could easily attach it to the tabletop later.
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I primed the legs with Rusty Metal Primer and let it dry, then sprayed it with metallic gold spray paint.
Using my miter saw I cut (5) 1×6 boards to 29″ lengths. Then I cut (2) 1×4 boards to 28″ lengths.
I placed my 1×6 boards next to each other and then placed my 1×4 piece perpendicular to them and marked the center of each board to line up with it so I would know where to drill my pocket holes. These 1x4s are kind of like mini bread board ends.
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Then, I marked where I wanted my pocket holes to go on each 1×6 board so I could remember which way I was drilling as I went.
I used my pocket hole jig and the drill bit that came with it to drill the pocket holes I marked earlier. I wanted this part of the project to be very quick and easy, which is why I used pocket hole assembly. You can of course use dowels or just glue.
I used 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach each 1×6 board, then I flipped it over and attached the 1×4 pieces vertically at each end. For the ends, I used 1 1/2″ pocket hole screws because 1 1/4″ is a little Small so they didn’t hold up very well. (If you check out my YouTube video you’ll see what happened!) I also had to use glue, which you absolutely can, but I build a lot of furniture so that it’s easy to disassemble.
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Next I painted it using Varatana in a “provincial” color. I applied it with a foam brush and then wiped off the excess with a clean cotton cloth. When it dried I covered it with satin wipes in poly.
I attached the legs to the tabletop using 1/2″ screws and screwed them through the holes I pre-drilled in the flat steel bar. I kept about 1/2″ from the bread board ends. Older versions of your web browser are no longer supported to ensure user data is secure. Please update to the latest version.
Hourglass Metal Table Legs (Dining Table Legs, Coffee Table Legs, Bench Legs, Table Legs, Steel Table Legs, Metal Furniture Legs)
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What’s better than an hourglass? Hour glass metal table legs! These hourglass metal table legs are truly unique and are sure to grab the attention of everyone in the room. Offered in a variety of sizes to suit coffee tables, benches, dining tables or whatever you have in mind. This listing is for hourglass legs made from 2″ square tubing but we also offer these legs in heavy duty 3″ square tubing for larger tables. Please send us a message or see our 3″ tubing listing here (https:///ca/listing/779997137/metal-table-legs-3-tubing-hourglass?ref=shop_home_active_1)
• Top mounting 1/4″ x 4″ flat bar plate with predrilled holes to fit 1/4″ size 8 or 10 wood screws
1) Choose your leg height – Standard dining table height is about 30″ finished overall height (wood top + metal legs). If your table top is 1.5″-3″ thick, a 28″ base will work best. If you need a slightly shorter or taller leg, send us a message and we’ll be happy to adjust the size.
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We offer our legs at a coffee table/bench height of 16.5″. Again, if you need your coffee table or bench a little shorter or taller, let us know.
2) Choose your leg width – We generally suggest that your tree top overhang the legs by about 3-5″ on each side for an overall overhang of 6-10″. For example, if your top is 38″ wide, choose a leg width between 28-32″. If you need a wider or narrower leg than listed, give us a shout!
3) Choose your finish – We offer our legs in a matte black powder coat, clear coat finish or raw steel finish.
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Powder coating your legs not only adds color but also protects your legs from rusting over time. Our most popular color is matte black so it’s our go-to color choice. However we do offer other colors for an additional charge, so if you have something else in mind don’t hesitate to send us a custom request.
Our clear coat finish provides a more rustic, industrial look and shows all the details of the raw metal (including grinding marks and imperfections). We suggest this option if you want the raw steel look but want to protect your legs from rust.
If you want to paint the legs yourself or leave them completely raw, choose our raw steel option. Raw steel has no protective coating so it rusts over time. If you choose the raw steel option, we highly recommend finishing the legs with a 2-in-1 paint and primer for metal, such as Rust-Oleum or Rust-Oleum Clear Coat. Rust can be prevented by applying a light coat of beeswax to your legs for a more eco-friendly option.
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Looking for something similar but a little different? No problem. We are happy to make adjustments to match your design! Send a message to Barry at blackandsmithironworks [!at] gmail.com
We offer free shipping within Canada and the United States (except Hawaii and Alaska). Delivery is 1-5 business days to most locations in Canada and 3-10 business days in the US. Please note that this applies to shipping time only. Current manufacturing lead times are indicated on each list. A tracking number is provided after all orders are shipped. Orders to Hawaii and Alaska are subject to additional surcharges – please inquire prior to purchase.
All our legs are handmade for you! Since our legs are made without any automatic machining, slight variations in height and width of up to 1/8″ can be expected.
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Questions? We know this is a lot of information to take in so feel free to contact us with any questions you may have
