Legs For Coffee Table Metal – Yes, another welding job! Today I’m showing you how to make this DIY coffee table with welded steel legs. Now, I’m not sure
Another coffee table since I have built some recently (like this one and this one), but I wanted to experiment with different leg designs and also get more welding experience in the belt.
Legs For Coffee Table Metal
Also, I could use a larger coffee table in the living room/office. I realize most of you don’t weld, but I hope you still enjoy watching the process. Be sure to check out the video here. If you want to make the same table without welding, you can order pre-made metal legs online.
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First, I cut 2 pieces of 2″ flat steel bars to 26″ long each with a portable band saw. Then I cut (4) pieces of 1/2″ steel rod to 16″ each, and (4) pieces to 19″ each.
I used my big grinder with a disc cover to grind the ends of each rod as well as the flat bar.
You need to have a very clean surface to weld, so any parts that are going to be welded together I use an angle grinder to get rid of all the grimy residue. (Raw steel is super noisy.) I tried to grind the rod ends to a slight angle to make them easier to connect but I didn’t do a very good job.
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I used magnetic clamps to position the steel bar vertically. (These magnetic clamps come in very handy, by the way.) I knew I wanted the outside rod to be angled in a bit, so I cut pieces of scrap wood to 15 degree angle to use that sort of as a jig to lay. My steel rod was told to make sure that the two will be welded at the same angle.
I marked an inch from each side, and lined up my scrap wood angled with the mark, then laid my 16 long steel rod next to each and used magnetic clamps to hold it in place. This ensures that the rod will be welded an inch from the end of the flat steel bar.
After the outer rod is in place, I put 2 of the 19″ long rods to make a V shape that criss cross in the middle, and I put them so that the 16″ and 19″ rods are 7 inches apart.
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When I had them positioned where I wanted them, I tack welded in place and then went back and finished up my welds, and then flipped over and welded the other side. Then I repeat this whole process for the second leg piece.
After all this is welded together I used my big grinder with a flap disc to smooth out the very messy welds. Guys, I told you I’m a beginner so don’t look too hard and don’t judge too much!
I used a multi-purpose drill bit intended for use in metal to pre-drill a hole in a flat steel bar so that I could easily attach it to the tabletop later.
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I primed the legs with Rusty Metal Primer and allowed them to dry, then sprayed them with metallic gold spray paint.
I cut (5) 1×6 boards to 29″ long each using a miter saw. Then I cut (2) 1×4 boards to 28″ long each.
I laid my 1 × 6 board next to each other and then positioned my 1 × 4 piece perpendicular to them, and marked where the middle of each board lined up with me will know where to drill pocket holes. These 1x4s will be kind of mini breadboards.
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Then, I marked where I wanted the pocket holes on each 1×6 board just so I would remember which side I drilled as I went.
I used the pocket hole jig and the drill bit that came with it to drill the pocket holes where I had marked before. I wanted this part of the project to be super quick and easy, so I used pocket hole joinery. You can always use dowels or just glue them up.
I used 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach each 1×6 board, then I turned and attached 1×4 pieces perpendicular to each end. For the ends, I used 1 1/2″ pocket hole screws because 1 1/4″ is a little too short so they don’t go together well. (If you check the YouTube video, you will see what happened!) I also had to use glue, which is possible, but I made furniture that I like so that it is easy to disassemble .
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Next I colored using Varathane in the color “Province.” I apply it with a foam brush and then wipe off the excess with a clean cotton cloth. When it’s dry I cover it with a satin wipe on the poly.
I attached the legs to the table using 1/2″ screws, and screwing them through pre-drilled holes in the flat steel bar. I placed it about 1/2″ from the breadboard ends. It does not support the old version of the web browser in order to ensure that the user’s data remains safe. Please update to the latest version.
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What’s better than an hourglass? Hour glass metal table legs! These hourglass metal table legs are truly unique and will surely attract the attention of everyone in the room. Offered in a variety of sizes perfect for coffee tables, benches, dining tables or whatever comes to mind. This listing is for hourglass legs made from 2″ square tubing but we offer these legs with heavier duty 3″ square tubing for larger tables. Please order or view the 3″ tubing listing here (https:///ca/listing/779997137/metal-table-legs-3-tubing-hourglass?ref=shop_home_active_1)
• Top mounting 1/4″ x 4″ flat bar plate equipped with predrilled holes to fit 1/4″ Size 8 or 10 wood screws
1) Choose the height of the legs – The standard height of the dining table is about 30 “overall height (wooden height + metal legs). If the table top is 1.5″-3″ thick, 28” base will work well. If you need a slightly shorter or taller leg, please send us a message and we will be happy to adjust the size.
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We also offer 16.5″ coffee table/stool height legs. Again, if you need a slightly shorter or taller coffee table or stool, please let us know.
2) Choose the width of the leg – We usually suggest that the top of the wood overhangs the leg around 3-5 “per side for a total of 6-10″ overall overhang. For example, if your top is 38″, choose a leg width between 28-32”. If you need a wider or narrower leg than what is offered in the listing, give us a shout!
3) Choose Finish – We offer our legs in either matte black powder coat, clear coat finish or raw steel finish.
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Having the legs powder coated not only adds color but protects the legs from rusting over time. The most popular color is matte black so this is the color choice. However, we offer other colors at an additional cost, so if you have something else in mind, don’t forget to send us a special request.
The clear coat finish provides a more rustic industrial look and shows all the details (including grind marks and imperfections) of the raw metal. We recommend this option if you want the look of raw steel but want to protect your legs from rust.
If you prefer to paint the legs yourself or leave everything raw, choose the raw steel option. Raw steel has no protective coating, so it will rust over time. If you choose the raw steel option, we highly recommend finishing the legs at home with a 2-in-1 paint and primer for metal like Rust-Oleum or Rust-Oleum clear coat. For a more eco-friendly option you can prevent rust by applying a light coating of beeswax on the legs.
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Looking for something similar but a little different? No problem. We will be happy to make adjustments to fit your design! Send a message to Barry at blackandsmithironworks [!at] gmail.com
We offer free shipping in Canada and the United States (excluding Hawaii and Alaska). Shipping to most locations in Canada is 1-5 business days, and 3-10 business days in the US. Please note that this only applies to shipping time. Current manufacturing lead times are indicated on each listing. All orders are provided with a tracking number once shipped. Orders for Hawaii and Alaska are subject to additional charges – please inquire before purchasing.
All of our feet are handmade just for you! Because our legs are made without automatic machines, height and width variations can be up to 1/8″.
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Question? We know this is a lot of information to take in, so feel free to contact us with any questions
